I don’t remember the first wave I ever surfed but the feeling of surfing is unforgettable. To me, they all feel like my first. The sensation you feel when you catch a wave and then the dropping and turning, and being pushed along by a wave, it’s all just magical. Some of the best moments of my life have been on a surfboard, riding waves. You just feel like you’re on top of the world. Stoked.
If you haven’t tried it, you should! Try to get to Waikiki (Honolulu, HI) and learn in warm water. There’s nothing better than surfing in warm water. Caution: May be habit forming.